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| Underwater Hockey Equipment & Gear What you need to have to play Underwater Hockey . |
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| Hi all, I'm keen to make my own glove and am currently trying to figure out the best way to go about it... So I've got a few questions. Everyone seems to be completely coating their gloves. Is this necessary, or can you just apply protection where needed without a base coat? What's the advantage of this? I can imagine that if you were using a cotton glove as a base, you might want to coat it to keep it from being attacked by chlorine, but are there other advantages? Does doing a complete coat offer better grip, or stop the protection from peeling off? Also, most people seem to be using latex, but what about silicone? Would you still completely coat the glove with that, and if so, do you need to thin it (perhaps using white spirits or turps) beforehand? I'd have thought it would be a bit thick for a complete coat the way it comes out of the tube. Finally, has anyone tried polyurethane for protection? It sounds like it might be a bit more flexible than silicone. Thanks, Dave. |
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| hi dave, full coat as in latex/silicon on the palm and all over the fingers is generally applied to prevent the base glove rotting. you can use a nylon glove which wont rot but is a little thicker, and leave the underside uncoated... but you are right, a bit of a coat on the palm etc also helps with a bit of grip as cotton/nylon etc is a little slippery by itself. (or you could cut out the palm which some people prefer) yes, by all means you can use silicon, its often easier to get a quick glove as it cures a lot faster than latex. also if you use kitchen/bathroom silicon it can be ready to play with in as little as a couple of hours... if you mix paint into the silicone it also mixes in air bubbles which speeds the curing process still further. you dont need to thin silicone to apply a thin layer... just squish it into the weave of the glove and scrape off the excess, no worries. pretty good idea to go all over in order to anchor the silicone into the material as silicone if not worked into the weave of the glove can peel off after a while, or tend to kind of feather off the gloves at the silicone/cotton transition. try to get hold of good quality photography gloves, theyre a cotton/polycotton type blend of something that is nice and stretchy but doesn't rot and is nice and thin. (fat thick cotton gloves like they use for gardening take away quite a bit of feel of the stick cos they are that much thicker) i havent tried polyurethane myself so can't comment. good luck! ...oh yeah, biggest advantage of silicone gloves is that silicone will adhere to itself months down the track allowing for easy repairs... not the case with latex gloves, which stick to not much when cured, meaning things like tape, superglue or wetsuit glue have to be used for repairs.
__________________ it's more polite on the grating than on the subs bench |
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| well said Atapene. what i would like to add, The first glove you will make, will prabably look like ****, but the third will be allright. Practice makes perfect. ATB Marko
__________________ kurac pička govno sisa RASMC http://www.phljubljana.si/pictures/razno/uwh_gloves.htm http://forum.phljubljana.si |
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| Thanks atapene, that's exactly what I needed to know. For the gloves, I was thinking of using chefs' cut resistant gloves. They're quite thin and flexible, but are also synthetic (Spectra, I think), so hopefully won't rot, and if a knife can't get through them then pool tiles shouldn't. (Only downside is that they're $20 instead of $2.) Heheheheh, that's what I've been told. We'll soon see. I'll post photos when I'm done. |
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| Hi Dave, A couple more tips to help... - When you start use latex gloves underneath the cotton/nylon glove. Helps to keep the silicone (if using silicone) off your hands which can be a good thing since it hurts after a while. - Put some dishwashing liquid in the latex glove before you put it on to make taking it off easier. - Agree with all Atapene said. I prefer silicone, have made some latex gloves but find them less flexible and feel generally less nice on your hand. Whatever works best for you though. - The best sillicone type to use I have found is "window and glass". - After the base layer is on, bring on the protection parts quite quickly and after you have finished and it has dried for 5 minutes use dishwashing liquid on your hand and smear it over the silicone to make it smoother - and therefore less likely to have bumps that can catch and break off. - For good quality sit with it on your hand for as long as you can stand it, holding a stick to get the form right. Hire the Lord of the Rings trilogy and spend a relaxing afternoon on your butt. - The biggest problem with making a glove is getting it off your hand when you can't stand it anymore and still keeping the shape intact. The silicone has dried on the outside, but when you move your hand the silicone underneath will squish around everywhere. The latex glove and a helper is then handy... get the helper to blow into the glove while you pull your hand our as quickly and smoothly as possible. Then push the silicone that moved (hopefully not much) back into place. Then leave it for a few days to dry. - I like putting some velcro on the glove around my wrist to keep it closed. Some ready made gloves use neoprene, but velcro sewn on works pretty good. - To prolong the life of the glove, I keep it in a mask box in my bag so it doesn't take a beating every time I throw my bag somewhere. Good luck.
__________________ Faster than a speeding puck... Last edited by Jols : 20-11-07 at 11:12 PM. |
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| we just vasoline up our hand when we make ours, leaves you with a nicely coloured hand for the next couple of days - stops the latex from sticking to you though |