UWH Puck Development

Ok folks, time for your input....

I am the maker of the canamuwh universal and guelph pucks. canamsticks.com - Home

I want to provide a new puck design to the uwh world. This puck will be designed by this thread. We can talk about materials, weights, sizes, angles etc. Also will be revelent is what type of bottom we are designing for? I like my universal puck, it is a great all round puck for most bottoms, but it could be better, i'm sure of that.

I will produce a prototype (at a very low cost) for those interesting in trying it when the design is completed.

Anyone?

Thanks!

Steve Kars
canamsticks.com - Home

I was thinking that I would like to perfect the universal puck a bit more. So the bottoms that it is designed for are mostly rough surfaces and small to medium tiles. I like the slider, so I can play with the diameter of the slider and shape of the outside of the puck. I can provide what dimensions that it currently is if someone wants to know.

The dutch used to have a heavy square puck with a slider and a radiused edge, I like that but it worked better on large tile bottoms. Any input?

Steve

yeah the old south african puck was also very similar to the dutch puck i think.

pretty heavy but good pucks, both of them.

no idea why people didn't continue with the square design and brought in these bevelled pucks that bounce and skip all over the show.

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it's more polite on the grating than on the subs bench

Steve,

What is a slider? Do you mean a teflon plate on the puck?

I think you mean the Bontje puck in the Netherlands. It had sort of browny plastic edges, with white teflon plates on both sides - is that the one you mean?

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Faster than a speeding puck...

Yes the slider is the teflon plate, however I don't use teflon, I use something much better. I think it was the bonje puck for the dutch one. I also like the heavier puck as well, do you think it would be better if it's closer to the 1.5kg rule?

Steve

nah dont go too close to 1.5kg...

i weighed the parore puck a while back, i always thought it was close to 1.5 as it's a noticeably heavier puck than the aussie and other lighter pucks etc... turns out it's only 1.3!

so the slightest difference can obviously make for different feel of weight. 1.1 kg pucks for kids are so light as to be impossible to pass, so i'm guessing possibly 1.25kg or so might be the optimum... maybe 1.27? sorry i can't remember quite what the aussie one weighs but my feeling is the ideal weight would be halfway between the aussie and parore puck weights... i think the dutch puck is very similar to the nz one. (jols?)

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it's more polite on the grating than on the subs bench

Got to agree not to get too close to 1.5 kg. It does make it more stable (marginally maybe), but it also has disdvantages.

I did some quick weighing with the kitchen scales, not the most accurate things in the world but good enough. I get:

Parore puck: 1.3 kg
Simms puck: 1.2 kg
Bontje puck: 1.5 kg

BUT - these are old bontje pucks, a number of years ago he also started making a model that was 1.3 kg (maybe a tad heavier). It had all of the good properties of the old one, and was also easier to flick from your wrist without ache afterwards (for those of us whose wrists are buggered). You would most likely have played with the lighter one Liam, so yes, very similar.

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Faster than a speeding puck...

Hi Peeps....

This is the puck we use with the club i'm based at and it is normally the puck we use at comps/championships... Still not sure why we used that other puck at the worlds in Durban as this puck is much better... have a look... the link is:
Stop Pucking Around!

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Regards,

Marius

"Great works are performed, not by strength but by perseverence" - Samuel Johnson

Hi,

If you want to know more about the simm's puck :

Bayer MaterialScience NAFTA - News


Remy

the orca puck is made from good material, they certainly got that right.

however it still does have the bobbling characteristics associated with that bevelled edge. thats what the text refers to, but i hardly see how modifying the inner would really solve that... it's a problem of the shape of the outer.

the orca is slightly better to pass than the natal puck but the natal one does sit a little better and bobbles less.

probably the best combination of all the features of various pucks would be the flat squarish outer shape of a nz or dutch or old SA puck, with orca or aussie puck material as the plates top and bottom and an oreo or simms style band of softer material around the puck for grip.

possibly indenting the middle of top and bottom faces to lift the injection points from the tiles and make both surfaces consistent could also be helpful... it might also improve tile speed by reducing surface area (but keeping contact area as wide as possible to prevent bobble)... some people have thought that indenting the puck in the middle can help with puck rotation and stability by putting the weight more on the outside of the rim but i'm not sure theres much proof of that being a factor.


something we havent touched on before, but ice hockey pucks have the same problems with design that we do to a certain extent... an icehockey puck with bevelled edges would cause havoc and never sit flat. they have been designing their pucks for far longer than we have and put a lot more money into it... end result, whats simple works, leave it a flat disc! maybe we need to take a leaf from their book also and keep it simple?

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it's more polite on the grating than on the subs bench